Been there and done that good luck with the lines.
I ended up replacing all the hard lines, brake and fuel and a new pump module.

the Rado looks great

Well, i am sitting at the GM dealer waiting on my truck. They have had it for a few weeks and still need to do some more work. I have found that my aftermarket warranty isn't quite as good as my nissan one was. Here's the shopping list:
Front hub - covered
Control Arm / Ball Joint Assembly - covered
Front End Alignment - covered
LF and RR tire pressure sensors - covered
Tire Pressure sensor reprogramming - covered
Tailgate bushings - 30
Power steering lines (x2) - covered
Battery - 135
Airbag control module - 459
Programming for module - 120
Left bank valve cover / gasket - covered
Top Engine Cleaning Service - covered



This truck is bleeding me dry.... i am a bit pissed that the airbag system isn't covered under my extended warranty. Apparently i didn't read the fine print very well....grrrr..

That blows, Bobby. Fight the man, damn the empire!

Wow, $120 for pushing a couple buttons to program the module? Sucks thats not covered.

Updated the list a few posts up with the rest of the dealer work done over the 3+ weeks they had my truck - a total of around $2200 of work which was around $850 out-of-pocket; the rest under warranty.

On the bright side, I recieved my new mirrors to replace the busted one - they're the extendable towing mirrors like on the HD trucks; I absolutely love them, especially since they have the blind-spot mirrors.

Here's what the corroded old Airbag Control Module looked like:



Compared to the new one:


Power Steering Lines:


No more squeaky tailgate:


New Valve Cover & Gasket:


Here's what the mirrors look like, I'll post up actual pics of them on the truck sometime:


And, after installing the mirrors along with all the work above, it passed inspection and is road legal again for another year

Wow 2,200!! Damn
Glad that you got it fixed though.
Was it from sitting while you were away??

I don't think that sitting helps it any. I also found that, like a lot of other trucks of this model, my 3rd brakelight seal leaks which lets in water during rain/snow.

Will be dealing with that this weekend....

Some thoughts on the air bag module:

Was the corrosion caused by the leak from the window safelight put in? If so, make a claim with them.

Take a good look at your original warranty on the truck. Sometimes there are real long-term warranties on the restraint system. They don't want people to get hurt because a restraint system fails and the people don't get it fixed because of the cost and it later turns to have been a manufacturer defect in the first place. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that my 2002 Xterra had a lifetime warranty on the seatbelt -- came in handy when it malfunctioned on me and had to be replaced.

k_enn

Thanks for the input, Ken; I'll follow up a little more with that.

I took out the rear seat and pulled back the carpet and when I went through the carwash, I had water dripping from the brake light. Once I get it sealed up, I'll check the front to make sure it's not the dang windshield as well.

This whole thing has been really frustrating.

While I was traveling this last time, i was sitting around my hotel one night and ordered up some stuff for the 4Runner:

- Performance Accessories 3" BL
- Pro Comp Rear Lift Coils

I'll be getting front balljoint spacers and fabbing up a panhard bar bracket for the rear and I think that'll be the extent of my lift kit for now. 35"+ Tires should fit with a bit of trimming/fender manipulation.


**UPDATE 8 FEB 2012**

Just picked up a used GoPro as well

Very Cool Mods

Damn water leaks

My truck has had some more electrical glitches lately which have got me into fire-fighting mode once again.

Every now and again (usually when it's cold and dark out - high electrical demand) I have been having my locks lock/unlock on my and the heater/lights all start flickering. The truck startes to run rough, warning lights go off and it's shut off a couple times, too. 5 minutes later, nothing is wrong, no codes are stored, and I don't have the problem for another couple days.

Researching this a ton over the past week or so has lead me to the grounding in the truck. This, again, seems to be a pretty common problem with this body style trucks as the grounding isn't adequate. They even had a recall on trucks with the windshield washer heaters as it would overheat the grounding system and start a fire. I noticed I had around 50 ohms resistance between the negative battery cable and the grounding connections in the cab, which is way to excessive in my book.

Anyway - back to the point - my solution. For now, I've cleaned up the termination points on the battery cables as well as some of the various grounding points on the truck. One common area of problems (there's even a TSB for it) is the grounding cable under the truck; here is mine here before celaning it up; pretty substantial surface corrosion:


Since cleaning up the connection points, I haven't been able to replicate the problem

The main ground from the battery to the frame is only like 8- or 10- gague wire at best. The main ground to the engine is the larger wire, approximately 4-gauge (which still seems small to me) which handles starting.

I've got some leftover 4-gauge wire laying around from an old stereo system so my plan is to go through and put in a better grounding system.



**UPDATE 14 FEB 2012**

I picked up a set of 15/38.5-15 Gumbo Monster Mudders for the 4Runner for next to nothing; they're mounted on 15x10 wheels and measure in at 36x15 as they are a little worn and are undersized for a 38.5; My plan is to use these for clearancing while keeping my eye out for a better set of tires and a spare on craigslist - they don't make the gumbos any more and these have some weather cracking. Needless to say, it's going to require some extensive fender/firewall surgery to get these badboys to fit

Here are a few pics:




Until later ~

Damn Bobby, I hope thats it and it's fixed for a while.

Just one thing after another!

That sucks bro. Hope it all works out in the end.

If you need a had doing some work give me a call or txt. I've been having weekends off for a while lately.

I may take you up on that. I'll be on vacation from tomorrow 'til the 7th, but I should have some weekends off after that. I want to see your KOH pictures.



I did have some time this past week after I got home from work each day to do some stuff. After cleaning up my grounding connections, I haven't had any more problems yet. I still haven't had a chance to add additional grounding, but that will come. I was able to fab up a new intake tube. This is the rediculous air inlet ducting that comes on my truck:



It seems like a whole lot of nonsense and is quite restrictive; I understand that the goal of this is to reduce intake resonation, but come on... It also must make the air going into the engine extremely turbid.

I decided to do a little custom piping with some 4" schedule 40 PVC. I shaved down a street elbow and used a few inches of straight 4" piping. After gluing these together, I bedlined them and drilled/tapped the connection for the crankcase evacuation tube. I connected it with a couple rubber couplings; the one near the airbox is 3"x4" the one on the throttle body is 4"




The intake sound is definitely more pronounced, but I like it. Throttle response seems to be a bit better under hard acceleration.



*** UPDATE 6 JUNE 2012 ***

Here are a few pictures of the grounding straps I installed a few months ago - so far no more electrical gremlins!

Before:




After:








I bought a 25' roll of 4-gauge wire off of Amazon, which was more like 6 gauge wire, but still does the trick.


I also got around to finally painting my rear axle. POR-15'd her: